Shorehouse Maxi Skirt Pattern Only

Sewing Instructions in 16 steps

Sewing Construction in 16 steps:

1. A wide seam allowance is required at the selvedge to ensure the non-printed edge is concealed. Alternatively, one may cut the selvedge off before proceeding.

2. Fold the fabric in half, lengthways and place the large pattern piece with ‘Cut on Fold’ on the fold of the fabric.

3. Cut it out. Observe the markings for notches (short line markings perpendicular to the cut lines) and nick (a small cut of ~3mm depth) them. Nick at the top of fabric fold too.

4. The waistband will be cut across the fabric separately i.e. not folded. Cut a piece of fusible interfacing (lighter weight than fabric you’ve chosen). Place the rougher or shinier, glue side onto the wrong side of the waistband piece. Press the centre of the pieces together first for about 4 seconds, then circulate over the area for another 8 seconds approximately.

Complete the rest of the piece in the same method. Check if adhered correctly once cooled.

5. Separately, overcast ie. zig zag stitch or overlock, the two selvedge edge seams UNLESS the selvedge was retained, uncut earlier.

6. With a long gathering stitch (setting 4-5), sew two rows along the top cut edge of the skirt, 9mm and 5mm from the edge. Do not back-tack. These are your gathering stitches. Alternatively, use a gathering foot.

7. Fold the skirt with right sides together. Pin the side seam from below the notch. Straight stitch your seam, ensuring the selvedge holes and unprinted edge are concealed. Above the nick is left open for the zip to be inserted.

8. At the top edge on one side, choose two of the threads, both top or both bottom of the gathering stitches. Pull them out by sliding the fabric along, to gather the fabric. Gather to the same measurement as your waistband piece.

9. Attach your waistband by bringing one of the right sides of the waistband’s long edge and the right side of the gathered skirt edge, together. Pin in place and stitch.

10. Applying your zip: open the zipper and pin the edge of the tape to the edge of the fabric opening (the teeth will be ~1cm away from the zig-zagged edge, if it was zig-zagged). The stopper at the top of the zipper teeth should be placed just below the nick located halfway through the short edge of the waistband. Using an invisible zipper foot or a zipper foot, stitch the first side of the zipper down to the bottom of the opening – about 2mm from the teeth. There should be about 5cm of zipper below remaining. This lets you clear the zip-pull out of the way.

11. Apply the other side similarly.

Top Tip* Do not extend the stitching below the bottom of the opening as you may not get the zip head back through to the top. Watch a video tutorial on YouTube regarding invisible zip application if you need extra guidance.

12. Fold the waistband lengthways, right sides together – this encloses the top of the zip. Note that the flap at the top of the zip needs to be held into the seam allowance so it will be hidden inside the waistband once sewn. Fold the inside of the waistband’s seam allowance upward 1cm, pin short edge at 1cm and sew down the seam. Do the same on the other end of the waistband.

13. Turn waistband right side out. Gently poke the corners out with a blunt, pointed tool.

14. Pin along the waistband, with the inner seam allowance extended 1-2mm below the joining seam on the inside. ‘Ditch-stitch’ in the seam junction, end to end from the outside, ensuring you have caught the waistband down on the inside.

15. Wow! It’s looking like a proper skirt. Now make a double rolled hem by folding 1cm up and then a second-time with 1.5cm and pin. Stitch at the very edge of the top fold at 1mm.

16. Press the whole thing and be proud.

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